In praise of Beaujolais

October 12, 2016. Let me lay my cards on the table: I love good Beaujolais.  Sure, the Nouveau released every November can be light & negligible (although let’s be honest: it can also be fun, and sometimes rather delicious, and is almost never awful).  But Beaujolais, especially from the Crus of named villages, can be very good, and good Beaujolais is a pure delight to drink.  A couple of years back I was thrilled to start importing the Domaine des Mouilles Chénas from Laurent Perrachon, whose family have been Beaujolais farmers for generations.  Chénas is the smallest & rarest of Cru Beaujolais, with only around 600 acres of vines.  Current vintage of the Domaine des Mouilles is the 2014, which has grown only more delicious over the last few months in bottle.  The wine is light-bodied, frankly grapey, with soft tannins — as you expect from the Gamay grape — but it is also surprisingly structured, with pretty notes of white pepper on the satisfying finish.  Any good Beaujolais, including this one, would be a welcome picnic wine (with or without a little chill), but the savoriness & depth of character of the Mouilles make it a heavenly match for pork chops (my dinner last night with the wine), or especially, for roasted poultry.  This wine will definitely grace my Thanksgiving table this year (again!).